Fashion trends come and go, and certain stylistic details have been known to fade in and out of the menswear zeitgeist from decade to decade.
Some will point to shirt collar styles, lapel widths, and the cut of one’s pants to determine a particular era of men’s fashion, but it’s practically impossible to even have that kind of conversation without bringing up pleats.
Specifically, pleated pants. Like any detail, sometimes they’ve been in favor, such as when they were featured in the drape cuts of the 1920s and 1930s, or the 1980s, when they returned after a brief decline in popularity throughout the prior, disco-infused decade.
More recently, it’s rather easy to remember a time during much of the late 2000s and 2010s where they were looked upon as old-fashioned and even a bit antiquated. That era of men’s fashion was drawn to slimmer, more streamlined looks, cutting back on excesses of fabric and details like pleats which were possibly seen as frivolous.
But in the 2020s, something has shifted. Perhaps born out of a desire to dress properly again after emerging from our sweats and athleisure uniforms worn throughout much of the pandemic, pleats have slowly but surely reappeared not just in fashion-forward spaces, but at your regular, run-of-the-mill “mall brands” as well. Now halfway through this decade, pleats, it would seem, are back, baby.
The Stylistic Purpose of Pleats
If you’re less used to wearing them, or still a bit skeptical about why some prefer pleated pants, then tune in here!
In their earliest iterations, pleated pants were often looked at as a symbol of affluence and prosperity, since in order to create a pleated effect, it requires an excess of fabric to be layered over itself.
And since much of our classic western fashion trends are rooted in what was considered fashionable for the wealthy and the elite, the style would soon trickle down to those seeking to imitate and impress.
But beyond the notion of pleating pants simply because one could afford to, and obviously since they became a hallmark of fashion throughout much of the 20th century regardless of class and stature – there are still many stylistic benefits to rocking some pleats.
1. Visual Interest
Pleats add a detail and some visual depth where an otherwise flat-front pant would lack any.
That’s not to suggest that flat-front pants are inferior, but pleats do lend the wearer an extra dose of detail and flourish, adding shape and dimension to the waist region.
2. Drape and Shape
Unsurprisingly, pleats will reinforce the crease down the front of one’s pants, and help them to retain the shape and overall drape of the garment.
Whereas a flat-front pant tends to be a bit more rigid and prone to losing their center crease, pleats open up the flow of the leg and create a natural, pleasing line, making them quite favorable for more formal pants, as well.
3. Room to Breathe
If you’re a thicker-thighed fella, you might commonly run into the issue of pants and jeans fitting too tight above the knee, even when it’s a straight cut leg. A pair of generous pleats will often alleviate this issue by providing more fabric and thereby more room around the thigh area.
You’ll feel the difference the most when seated, as there will be little to no tugging at the crotch and seat of your pants. Win-win!
Types of Pleats
Pleats can come in several configurations, each differing in various ways that contribute to an overall unique appearance. They can vary in number, direction, and width, but these are the most common styles to look out for.
1. Single Pleats
The most streamlined, simplistic take on the concept, a pair of single pleats will add a touch more room to the thigh of one’s pants and reinforce the crease down the middle without adding too much bulk or volume. If you’re wary about giving pleats a try, a single pair of pleats isn’t a bad place to start or try it out for size.
2. Double Pleats
Two pairs of pleats are generally the more common configuration when contrasted to single pleats, and lean more traditional. When well cut with enough width and room, they’ll create a smooth drape effect that starts at the waist and travels down the entirety of the pant leg. Of all the options, this is the most classic one you can go for.
3. Triple Pleats
If you really like pleats, you can experiment with three pairs of pleats, though these are significantly more rare and harder to find in ready-to-wear garments. They’re certainly more of a statement, but some can pull it off.
4. Forward Pleats
In terms of which way the pleats are facing, forward pleats are aimed toward the fly seam, and tend to gather fabric inward instead of outward. For this reason, they tend to be a bit more slimming on some body types, but depending on how they’re cut, may create more room in the thighs as opposed to the seat. They are available in single, double, and sometimes even triple pairs.
5. Reverse Pleats
This configuration is found a bit more commonly than forward-facing pleats, and to some, leans a bit more formal. The most classic look of all would be two generously-cut pairs of reverse pleats that create a powerful center crease and give the wearer lots of room to move and lounge.
6. Box Pleats
One of the rarer varieties that often goes by other names, a box pleat usually refers to a pair of double pleats that face both directions – as in, each other, forming a triangle shape to create an ultra-unique, flattering effect. These don’t always create as much extra room as other pleat types, but they have a very distinct look that some may appreciate.
So, Are Pleats for You?
Now that you have a strong understanding of the purpose of pleats and their various iterations, only one question remains – are pleated pants for you?
While it certainly does land on an individual’s preference, we would kindly suggest that pleats are, in fact, for just about everyone!
Some might still see them as somewhat of an “old-man” style, but the fact is, they are back in full force from high-end designers to contemporary retailers. Despite a bit of an absence for over a decade, they’re quite fashionable now, and we would argue, they were the whole time.
Developing a sense of classic style means shirking trends in favor of timeless tastes that men have been wearing for generations.
When you look at the big picture, pleated pants have been the norm for all ages and demographics for the majority of the 20th century, with only a few notable dips in popularity. We’re only 25% of the way through the 21st century, and it would seem that pleated pants could very well be back to stay.
There’s absolutely nothing wrong with the clean, contemporary style of a flat-front pair of pants, but if you’re looking to add a bit more visual interest, be it for regular old chinos or your next suit, we encourage you to consider some pleats! You might just find it suits you.
And so, if you ask us what we prefer, we’d say, “Pleats, please!”