Good knitwear is so much more than just your run-of-the-mill crew-neck sweaters and corporate-friendly quarter-zips. Somewhere between those two types of sweaters exists a secret third option, forgotten to some by passage of time, and concealed away by others too embarrassed to acknowledge it. No, not the familiar cardigan.
We’re talking about sweater vests.
Particularly, their ins and outs, variations, and why they’re actually rad as hell. Ok, well, maybe “rad” isn’t exactly the word we’re looking for. “Tasteful,” perhaps. Or maybe “versatile.”
The point is, sweater vests could have a much stronger presence in your wardrobe, and we’re here to vouch for them!
We know what you’re probably thinking, and no, we haven’t gone senile. In recent years, the humble sweater vest has made a bit of a comeback in some menswear spaces. While always a staple of certain strains of “trad” or “ivy style” circles, they’ve begun to re-emerge as a contemporary style staple in their own right.
But what constitutes a “sweater vest?” What are their various iterations? How can you style each effectively? And why would you even bother going for sleeveless knitwear in the first place – especially if your main objective is to capitalize on heat retention?
We’ll answer all that, and more. Read on to find out how sweater vests can work for you.
Defining the Sweater Vest
At its core, sweater vests are simply defined as a piece of knitwear that lacks sleeves. Sans sleeves, if you will. They can be made from practically any material, including wool, cotton, mohair, linen, and synthetics or synthetic-blends. But whatever they’re made from, they always share one characteristic – no sleeves!
Most commonly, sweater vests tend to appear in v-neck variations, though crew-neck options do exist as well. Some sweater vests are pull-over, not unlike a standard sweater, though others will be made in a button-up configuration resembling a cardigan.
These cardigan-adjacent vests will often include pockets near the hip. The cutout where the sleeves would normally begin on either version is typically a bit wider, so as not to pull on one’s shirt sleeve and allow freedom of movement.
The Benefits of Sweater Vests
Sweater vests are an absolute dream for layering potential. In either pull-over or cardigan iterations, their lack of sleeves helps them fit a bit better under a jacket or sport coat.
Chunkier sweaters will often have thicker sleeves, which, depending on the construction of your jacket sleeve, might not be a great fit. Sweater vests remedy this, and offer bonus style points by acting as a contrasting waistcoat of sorts.
Additionally, the classic v-neck sweater vest configuration frames your neck and face admirably, and can even be enhanced with the addition of a tie to fill the space.
And let’s not forget – like any good piece of knitwear, sweater vests can potentially provide a dose of intrigue to your outfit by introducing some texture and/or pattern. Naturally, these will be determined by the material or weave.
Sweater vest cardigans will sometimes even feature unique buttons, such as horn buttons, corozo buttons, leather-wrapped shank buttons, and more. These little details go quite far to make the individual piece stand out.
The Wide World of Sweater Vests
Like we said, there’s a large variety of sweater vest iterations, made with different materials, patterns, and weaves. Here are a handful of the most tasteful types you should probably know about. (Note: pretty much every type of sweater vest listed below can be found in either a pull-over or cardigan configuration.)
- Wool Sweater Vests
The prime example of sleeveless knitwear intended for fall and winter wear, wool sweater vests can come in even more varieties, believe it or not. Lambswool is thick and fairly economical, while shetland wool provides even more texture and warmth. Then you have ones made from less common and more luxurious materials, like cashmere, alpaca, and mohair.
- Cotton Sweater Vests
While these can weigh similarly to their wool counterparts, cotton is a more breathable fabric than most wools, meaning that sweater vests utilizing the familiar material are best for fall and springtime use. They can also lean a bit sportier, depending on the rest of the sweater’s details (see below).
- Tennis Vests
These will usually be made from either some form of wool, cotton, or a blend, but they’re undeniably preppy either way. Tennis sweater vests typically feature a deep v-neck with some sort of embellishment (like stripes) around the collar. With an elite school insignia, they can get even more ivy, and will sometimes sport elevated details like a cable-knit weave.
- Fair Isle Sweater Vests
Although Fair Isle is considered a pattern/knit style, authentic Fair Isle knitwear originates from Scotland, and is almost always made from wool, be it lambswool, shetland, or merino. Fair Isle sweater vests sport the same intricate, colorful designs as any other Fair Isle piece, without the sleeves, of course.
How to Style a Sweater Vest
Despite their frequent appearances in trad and ivy style menswear spaces, sweater vests are actually a lot more versatile than you might think. They can be dressed up or down, used to elevate an outfit or complement something more contemporary. There’s truly no wrong way to wear one, but here are a few places to start if you’re still a bit unsure.
- Countryside Class
Sweater vests have a bit of a grandpa-adjacent reputation, but sometimes, old folks have great style! Classic English countryside style is one great example, and sweater vests look right at home with this aesthetic. Consider a pair of corduroy trousers with an oxford cloth button down shirt in a neutral color, paired with a wool knit tie, a tweed sport coat, and of course, a sweater vest. Textured wools tend to look best here, and if you want some pattern – Fair Isle is the perfect match!
- Old Money/Ivy
While these two styles do have their distinctions, they go together quite well in the context of rich, preppy, and sporty attire. For that ivy league tennis club look, go for a pair of pleated chinos in either a light khaki, stone, or ecru white color tone. Pair these with a striped broadcloth or oxford shirt, and then add a cotton or lightweight wool tennis vest with cable knit details or similar. Cream, navy blue, and forest green tend to look the best with this look.
- 90s Nostalgia
Sweater Vests picked up their dorky reputation somewhere in the mid 80s or early 90s, but there are some pretty contemporary 90s looks utilizing sleeveless knitwear that look pretty damn neat in our opinion. For example refer to the hit 90s sitcom Friends, and follow the Chandler Bing method. Try pairing pleated khakis with a white or blue shirt in oxford cloth, chambray, or denim. Get a braided brown leather belt with a brass buckle for good measure, and pop on a cotton or wool sweater vest in a cardigan configuration. Bam! A bit dorky to be sure, but in an earnest, 90s heartthrob kind of way. Like Chandler!
Get Invested
Hopefully by now, you can see the merits of the humble sweater vest. It’s a prime piece of layering that allows for greater flexibility regarding your choice of jacket or outerwear, and can even be a lot of fun when worn as the top layer all on its own!
Crew-neck sweaters will always be the popular first-choice for practical knitwear with versatility, but if you’re looking to stand out, experiment with a bit of retro flare, or simply expand your wardrobe options, it might be a good idea to invest in some sweater vests.
While vintage options are in good stock on second-hand marketplaces like eBay and Depop, their surge in popularity the past few years has led to them popping up in stores from familiar brands like J.Crew, Brooks Brothers, Todd Snyder, among others.
And hey, after reading through this comprehensive guide and making it all the way to the end, we have no doubt you’ll absolutely rock one.