And for anyone whose keel might not feel so even heading into competition, Griffin recommends leaning into that discomfort like a wave.
“I would say, just be aware of how you’re feeling,” he advised. “And be willing to recognize what it is might be challenging you, and either write it down or find someone close to you that you can talk to about it. ‘Cause it seems like half the battle is just recognizing those thoughts or feelings.”
Taking a break to tend to one’s mental health can also be “a beautiful thing,” Griffin added, pointing to some fellow surfers on the tour who’ve done so. Because, he explained, “you can’t keep going” if you’re not fully present on that board.
“You can’t be one foot in, one foot out—it would just tear you apart,” he said. “They’re recognizing that they’re not feeling good and taking a step out is massive. And you see surfers come back from that even stronger.”
—Reporting by Nikaline McCarley
As Griffin prepares to (wet)suit up for the 2024 Olympics, check out what all the U.S. athletes will be wearing for the opening and closing ceremonies: