Tailored clothing is inherently intricate. Especially a proper suit.
From their multi-layered, three-dimensional construction, to the countless materials and fabrics used, to their various iterations through the decades over the course of the past 150 or so odd years – suits are always changing, but if one thing has remained constant, it’s their complexity.
So imagine, if you will, a variation of the suit that somehow finds a way to add yet another layer of visual interest and offers arguably one of the most unique silhouettes a garment is capable of.
Interested? Well, chances are, you’re already familiar with the subject of this article. After all, you did read the title and consciously clicked on it. But we digress – the double-breasted suit is, indeed, one of the greatest sartorial expressions ever cut to cloth, and we mean that wholeheartedly.
While its popularity has swayed in and out of the fashionable zeitgeist on numerous occasions, it stands to reason that we are actually in the midst of its most prominent revival this century.
All of our adoration for the double-breasted suit aside, we understand that they can be a bit intimidating to newcomers. In some cases, they do make a bit more of a statement than a typical single-breasted jacket or suit might.
So, we’ve prepared this handy, in-depth guide that delves into the history of the double-breasted suit (also commonly referred to as a “DB”), its variations, and how to style them effectively.
A Brief History of Double-Breasted Suits
To understand where the double-breasted closure system is derived from, one first needs to understand the origins of the suit, in general. Before the suit as we know it was the norm, men in England wore frock coats, which were significantly longer than the suit jackets we know today.
The advent of the modern suit was considered a more casual departure from the frock coat uniform worn by businessmen, bankers, and lawyers. The earliest suit jackets were mostly single-breasted garments, but it didn’t take long for the DB closure system to make its way to suit jackets as they grew in popularity.
Double-breasted suits showed up in the early 1900s, and really took off as a common variety in the 1930s. While its popularity would remain fairly steady for several decades, it may have faltered somewhat sometime in the 1960s, as this was a time where styles changed radically and entire new branches and subcultures were born.
Younger, freer spirits rejected the more conservative uniforms of past generations.
In the 1970s, men’s tailoring received new life in a strange and fun experimental era. The disco era saw the rise of polyester garments in exotic colors and patterns flood the western clothing markets, and DB suits were certainly reimagined in all sorts of ways during this period.
But it was during the transformative period of the 1980s when we were witness to the true renaissance of the double-breasted suit, and this time around, they were more powerful than ever.
Big, broad shoulders and drapey silhouettes echoed the styles of the 1940s somewhat, while elongated lapels and lower buttoning points on the jackets truly gave wearers an extra dose of masculine presence.
These DB suits were favored by the wealthy elite and young professionals of the time, often dubbed, “yuppies.” Designers like Giorgio Armani, Hugo Boss, and others embraced the DB silhouette and saw its popularity rise to new heights.
Just picture Patrick Bateman (Christian Bale) in American Psycho (2000) or Gordon Gekko (Michael Douglas) in Wall Street (1987) to get an idea of how this style shaped a new era of tailored clothing.
This renaissance lasted until about the turn of the century, when more relaxed office dress codes saw suits as a whole decline in popularity, and with them, their DB counterparts.
However, we’re currently in the midst of something of a menswear renaissance as a whole, and with it, tailoring and suits have been seeping their way back into fashionable folks’ favor. And as standard suiting has increased in popularity, so has people’s interest in the DB suit.
While perhaps once looked at as somewhat stuffy, conservative, or simply old-fashioned, today, the double-breasted suit is once again becoming recognized as a master stroke within the broader menswear canvas. They can be business- forward, relaxed, or downright groovy, depending on the individual details.
So now that you understand where the DB suit has come from, and where it stands today, it’s time to delve into those nitty-gritty details that mark the most common varieties of a DB suit, so you can identify the good examples of ones in the wild.
Common Features of Double-Breasted Suits + How They’ve Changed Through the Years
Double-breasted suits come in a variety of cuts and styles, but one thing is always the same – to qualify as a DB, one part of the front-facing fabric must close over the other, as opposed to meeting in the middle (in the case of single-breasted garments).
That said, there are a number of other markers to look out for that DB suits will likely sport, as well. Here’s a brief list to keep your eye out for.
In the case of the vast majority of double-breasted suits, peak lapels can almost always be expected. These, of course, differ to standard notch lapels by jutting upwards and outwards, toward the shoulders, diffusing the visual weight of the extra cloth that a DB inherently carries, and refocusing the eye on the jacket’s shoulder line.
They’re a striking, often elegant touch that conveys presence and sophistication. There are some rare DB jackets that sport a notch lapel, and these cropped up mostly in the 80s and 90s. They can look unique too, but peak lapels are generally the standard for DB suiting.
Double-breasted suits nearly always feature two button columns to facilitate the jacket’s closure. What sometimes differs is just how many buttons there are.
The most classic style, arguably, is the 6×2 variety, though 4×2, 6×1, 4×1, 2×1, and even 6×3 are also common. This naming convention is derived by the total number of buttons (the first number), followed by the total number of buttons that can actually be fastened (the second number).
That means a 6×2 may have six total buttons, and has two opposing buttonholes to fasten – though whether you’re supposed to button both is a matter of some debate (more on that later).
Throughout different decades, the most popular buttoning configuration for double-breasted suits has fluctuated greatly. 6×2 and 4×2 have always been considered fairly timeless, though in the age of 80s DBs, 6x1s and 4x1s were all the rage.
These versions tend to have lower buttoning points, fixated close to the waist, which in turn create a longer lapel line and an imposing, dramatic “v-effect.”
In the end, there’s no right or wrong version here – just the fact that all DBs have two columns of buttons to fasten one side over the other.
Much like regular suits, there’s three primary styles of vent for the rear of DB jackets: single vents, double vents, or no vents. Single vents are a bit less popular nowadays but are a classic American style with its own virtues.
Double vents are fairly common on both single and double-breasted suits, and reflect a certain English, Saville-row adjacent style that has become the standard across many world regions in today’s fashion landscape.
Lastly, the lack of a rear jacket vent at all owes its roots to Italian style tailoring, and is fairly common on DB jackets, as well.
Some associate the look with movie stars during the old golden age of Hollywood, and they certainly made their appearances throughout the early-to-mid 20th century, but were also carried into new contexts during the groovy 70s, powerful 80s, and casual 90s.
All vent options are certainly valid, but they do change the overall look and feel of a DB suit.
Cut, Style, and Other Details
For the majority of men’s tailoring history, suits have provided the wearer with room to move around while draping elegantly and thoughtfully around the body.
Slimmer suiting has had its moments, such as the early 20s, 60s, and most recently, the 2010s. DB suits, however, usually offer a bit more room and reflect style such as the classic “drape cut” and the like.
That’s not to suggest that they don’t flatter the wearer. Most double-breasted jackets attempt to cinch the waist somewhat, and the visual effect of peak lapels framing the torso and face is second-to-none. But 2010s styles notwithstanding, a DB suit would rarely present itself as overly slim, let alone “skinny.”
One may observe double-breasted tailoring from the 1970s with a slightly slimmer jacket. In the case of pants, the thighs were often cut quite slim as well to accentuate the flared leg opening. But only one decade later, the 1980s DB suits were big, drapey, and dramatic.
Other occasional details one might find on a fine DB suit are dual lapel buttonholes, cuffed pant legs (a slightly more casual detail), and patterns such as herringbone, houndstooth, pinstripes, chalkstripes, and more.
How to Rock A Double-Breasted Suit Right Now
Today, double-breasted suits have creeped their way back into the contemporary menswear zeitgeist. In pop culture, celebs of all stripes have been embracing them during red carpet events, including big names like Glen Powell, Jacob Elordi, Paul Mescal, and others.
But us regular folks can rock ‘em too! Here are our styling suggestions for how to slip on a DB and make it look easy.
Double-breasted suits have a more formal, serious aura, but as the fun tailoring of the 70s has shown us, that doesn’t need to be set in stone. DB suits cut from more casual and/or colorful materials can be easily dressed down a bit for a fun party or date night.
Consider pairing them with oxford shirts, silk shirts, or even plain white tees for a smart but elevated look.
In the other direction, an 80s or 90s style double-breasted suit can be a lot of fun if you treat it like a canvas that you just don’t stop adding to.
First, secure a vintage or vintage-style DB suit that reflects the era. Gray tones, dark blues, and even an olive green will do you just fine – and make sure it’s got that 6×1 or 4×1 buttoning configuration.
Pair it with a crisp striped dress shirt, and even go for a contrast collar and cuffs if you’re really feeling like a wannabe wall street hot-shot. Silk suspenders and an abstract tie are the cherry on top for a look that’s quintessentially 80s, but a ton of fun today.
- Clean-Cut and Contemporary
If you want to look timeless, sharp, and perhaps lean a bit more into the preppy or british connotations of a DB suit, go with something classic like a 6×2 or 4×2 in a rich navy blue or charcoal, perhaps patterned with some chalkstripes or similar.
Pair with a white or blue dress shirt featuring french cuffs, and simple repp stripe tie, plus some dark brown or black oxfords. If everything fits as it should, you’ll look like a million bucks – guaranteed.
? Don’t Button the Last Button
Much like on a single-breasted suit, you don’t want to fasten the bottom button on your DB jacket, unless of course, you’re wearing a 6×1 or 4×1, in which case there is only a single button to be fastened regardless. Some disagree with not buttoning the last button on a 6×2 or 4×2 DB jacket, but the popular consensus is to avoid it.
All Buttoned Up
By now, we hope that you’ve learned a bit about the rich history and many styles of the double-breasted suit.
If you’ve never considered wearing one before and have written them off in the past, you may be surprised to see how much variety they can entertain.
They can be about as formal or as fun as you want them to be, but if one thing is for certain, it’s that they are easily among the most interesting things a man can wear, and transform one’s image entirely, when executed well.
So, we wholeheartedly endorse the DB – give one a try sometime!