For most people, “black tie” is pretty much the most formal dress code there is. While technically surpassed by white tie, black tie attire is the more common, modern pinnacle of formal wear that the majority of people will actually experience on some occasions throughout their lifetime.
Whether for formal weddings, lavish galas, or opening night at the opera, black tie is all about following a fairly strict set of rules and adhering to a uniform look – and much less about standing out from a crowd. When an event calls for black tie, you want to fit in, and that means getting all the little details just so.
Unfortunately, as formal wear inches toward a more casual direction, some guys frequently make a number of common mistakes when putting together their black tie ensemble.
While some of these might seem a bit nit-picky, proper attention to detail is a fundamental principle of black tie attire. So, it’s important to be aware of common missteps one can make while ascending the black tie ladder.
Mistake #1: Wearing a Black Necktie Instead of a Bow Tie
You’d be surprised at how often this one occurs! For some guys who may be less familiar with the true definition of black tie, or even for those trying to somewhat “modernize” their outfit, this is one mistake to avoid at all costs.
While a black necktie is certainly a black tie in the most literal sense, the black tie dress code strictly calls for a black bow tie – made from the same silk-satin materials as the lapels of one’s tuxedo, that is.
You can’t simply swap one out for the other. We get it – you’re afraid that a bow tie will make you look dorky. But given the context of a proper black tie outfit, we assure you that the result is anything but. It looks smart, put-together, and signals that you understand and appreciate the rich history of menswear.
Just put a bow on it. And save the black necktie for funerals.
Mistake #2: Using a Black Suit as a Stand-in for a Tuxedo
This is arguably the most egregious fashion sin on this rather long list of other fashion sins, but it cannot be understated enough – do not do this under any circumstances! We have your best interests at heart here, truly.
So, you got an invite to a black tie event, but you don’t own a tux. Ah well, you think to yourself, my plain black suit should work just fine.
While we understand that not everyone will just have a tuxedo on stand-by, waiting for them in their closet, to the discerning eye, you’ll unfortunately just look out of place if you attempt this. A proper tux differs from a regular black suit in a few fairly distinctive ways, and it’ll just look off.
Mistake #3: Mind Your Waist
According to the black tie dress code, the waistline of one’s pants should never be exposed. Traditionally, men don an additional low-cut waistcoat or vest, or, more commonly, a silk-satin waist sash known as a cummerbund.
In recent years, more and more men have been neglecting this rule, and the results are somewhat unappealing.
The visual and aesthetic purpose of a waist covering is that it elongates the legs and lower torso, while preventing the white of one’s shirt from peeking out below the jacket’s buttoning point. Overall, it contributes to a cleaner, sleeker look.
Some men are a bit intimidated by the inclusion of a waistcoat or cummerbund, as they fear it will make them look old-fashioned. And while to some aesthetic tastes, that very well might be the case – that’s kind of the whole point of black tie attire. It’s about tradition!
Don’t disrupt the flow. Follow this rule, and you’ll look ten times better.
The only possible exception comes about when concerning a double-breasted tuxedo, which many feel renders a waist covering somewhat redundant.
However, if you’re accustomed to unbuttoning your double-breasted jacket while sitting, some believe it is then once again appropriate, even suggested, that you wear a waist covering.
Mistake #4: Thrown for a Loop
Some men have the privilege of designing for themselves a custom tuxedo, and while this presents many exciting possibilities and will likely ensure a great fit, it’s important to be aware of what kind of details you ought to leave off the tux.
A good tailor will suggest otherwise if you ask for them, but there do exist custom tuxedos that for some reason, have belt loops on the waistband of the pants.
For pretty much any other attire, these are an aesthetic and/or functional choice, but tux pants are traditionally held in place by either side-tab adjusters or suspenders – and often already have the necessary buttons sewn within.
Perhaps even worse than neglecting to wear a cummerbund or waistcoat is by breaking up the sleek harmony between the pants and the jacket with a belt. Be warned!
Mistake #5: Picking the Right Shoes
While you certainly have options to choose from regarding proper black tie footwear, don’t just settle for any old black shoe. Often, men will just assume that their existing pair of black “dress” shoes are good enough to go with their tux, but sometimes, they’re a bit misinformed.
As a rule, try to avoid black derbies. While you’ve got the color right, a derby style shoe is considered relatively casual and contrasts too strongly with the formality of a tuxedo.
Instead, opt for either black oxford shoes or opera pumps.
For the former, the simpler, the better. Avoid wingtip oxfords, and certainly types with excessive detailing, such as brogues. A cap-toe is also considered to be a casualizing detail, though you theoretically could get away with it so long as the shoe is a true closed-lace oxford (though this isn’t really recommended).
Opera pumps are a sort of dress loafer/slipper hybrid, and another valid choice for black tie.
Looking to go all-in? Consider oxfords or opera pumps in patent leather, a type of high-sheen gloss finish that truly sparkles and is iconic to black tie attire.
Mistake #6: Shirking Proper Shirts
When selecting the right shirt to go with your outfit, don’t assume that any old white dress shirt will do. In fact, traditional, proper tuxedo dress shirts differ in a few ways, and even come in a few variations.
For one, they will typically feature either a pique bib or pleated front, and the top few buttons are ideally fastened with a set of shirt studs (also known as tuxedo studs).
Additionally, a proper formal shirt will always include french cuffs, to be fastened with a pair of cufflinks. It is common practice for these to be part of a matching set along with the studs, but not required, necessarily.
Lastly, pay attention to the collar. The most contemporary option is a typical spread collar, ideal for the width of a bow tie. However, some opt for a wing collar shirt, which stands up along the neck and features two “wings” that stick up in front, to be tucked behind your bow tie.
So, you’ve got options to play with. But don’t just settle for a generic white dress shirt. Get it right, and it’ll make a world of difference.
Mistake #7: Knot Quite!
Look, we get it. Tying a bow tie isn’t the easiest for some people, especially if you haven’t done it before. And the plethora of perfectly nice-looking pre-tied options you can find online might look tempting! But that’s just the thing. They might be a bit too perfect.
See, most pre-tied bow ties, whether the kind you fasten from behind, or their far more egregious cousin, the dreaded clip-on, feature a knot that looks too damn immaculate and hardly ever shifts.
While you might like the sound of that, the pre-tied knot’s perfection is also its downfall. It just gives it away and ends up having the opposite effect. Instead of looking sharp, it can look a bit silly.
There’s something to be said about the raw authenticity of a well-tied, but not-quite symmetrical knot, doone by hand. You should aim to get it looking as neat as you can – but never quite perfect. That’s the magic, and why it’s worthwhile to learn and practice tying your own bow tie.
Stay Sharp
If you can manage to avoid these pitfalls, and follow the rules, there’s no doubt in our mind that you’ll look absolutely great at your next black tie event.
While much of fashion is about experimentation and flashy expression, it’s important to understand the purpose of black tie – that is, to respect a certain level of decorum and uniform.
That doesn’t mean you can’t look great while doing it, though. On the contrary! Stick to the script, make some informed decisions, and your black tie outfit will truly shine in the night.